Ganit Goldstein Collaborated with Stratasys on New Fashion Collection of 3D Printed Jewelry and Shoes

Ganit Goldstein, a fashion design graduate from Bezalel Academy of Arts and Design in Jerusalem, is one of many innovative fashion designers using 3D printing to create their designs. Recently, she premiered a new experimental collection at Milan Design Week called Shifted Craft. The project was supported by Stratasys and consists of seven pieces of 3D printed jewelry (combined with Swarovski crystals) and two 3D printed pairs of shoes – in an industry first, the multi-colored shoes were 3D printed directly onto leather.

Together with 15 other designers, Goldstein was chosen to publicly display her collection as part of the event’s Israeli Pavilion. Her inspiration for the project, as with some of her prior collections, is the time she spent in Japan learning the traditional ‘ikat’ technique for dying fabrics and yarns at the Tokyo University of the Arts. Goldstein’s vision for Shifted Craft was to use both the traditional ikat and modern 3D printing to, as Stratasys put it, “explore the relationship between body, form and technology.”

Goldstein believes in an interdisciplinary approach to design, and received support from Stratasys over the last two years for her boundary-pushing research project, which was centered around using the company’s multi-material PolyJet technology to amalgamate concepts of fashion. She used the company’s J750 3D printer to complete high-quality tests with complex shapes, including scaled parts that were as small as a single millimeter in thickness.

“Stratasys’ advanced 3D printing technology provides me with the unrestricted ability to print my designs in any color, form, and complexity. This collection was designed to shatter traditional limitations, by using the unique capabilities of 3D printing to innovate fashion design as we know it,” Goldstein explained.

“I wanted to make the entire collection accessible and ‘ready-to-wear’, in order to show the real potential of 3D printing. Certainly, with regards to the two pairs of shoes in the collection, we are breaking new ground for using such methods to create wearable shoes. I was able to print directly onto leather – an entirely new feature for 3D printing technology.”

We’ve seen 3D printed fashion pieces that include leather, printed sheets of material that closely resemble leather, and hybrid 3D printers that allow you to engrave leather, but not actually print leather itself, until now.

“Ganit lawfully and rigorously seeks to analyze and express the specific dimensions and qualities of the Japanese Ikat craft with use of parametric design, the containment within the borders of 2.5 dimension, while the technology enables full 3D modeling is an interesting one,” said Naomi Kaempfer, the Creative Director of Art, Design and Fashion at Stratasys. “Stratasys is focused on promoting and researching the extents of 3D textile design and applications. With new advances made in printing directly onto textiles, we are entering a new era of fashion design. We are committed to exploring innovations with our collaborators.”

In order to digitally manipulate the physical properties of the fabric, Goldstein used digitally-created materials for the two pairs of 3D printed shoes in her new collection. Thanks to the full-color capabilities of the J750, Goldstein is able to rapidly 3D print on fabric without relying on the molds or tools usually required for more traditional methods of textile fabrication. Her materials also make it possible for her to have total control over her pieces’ customization, design, and geometry.

Goldstein used 3D scanning and programming to design the shapes for her seven beautiful pieces of jewelry in a parametric software program, which were then 3D printed in all their multi-material and full-color glory on the Stratasys J750. To top it all off, Swarovski crystals were added to really make the jewelry and shoes shine.

What do you think of this new 3D printed fashion collection? Discuss this story and other 3D printing topics at 3DPrintBoard.com or share your thoughts in the Facebook comments below.

[Images provided by Ganit Goldstein]

TextileLab and Fabricademy: Interview with Anastasia Pistofidou on Sustainably 3D Printing Fashion.

Fashion and sustainability are two words that feel as antonyms nowadays. The mass production of clothing and ethically doubtful methods of manufacture give one of the biggest economic forces one of the top rankings of the most polluting sectors. This creates a negative social influence and climatic impact that makes obvious the need for a change to make fashion great again. This issue is not new and many people are working towards a better future. And although the changes come slowly, the mentality and so with it the industry is moving towards a healthier direction.

Picture of a 3D printer printing a sample

3D printing on textiles, one of the innovative methods in fashion industry. 3D printer at Fabricademy. Credit: Anastasia Pistofidou

One of those people who believe in the need for a change in fashion is Anastasia Pistofidou. She is a Greek architect specialized in digital fabrication technologies. Based in Barcelona, currently works as director of the FabTextile research lab and Fabricademy, a new textile and technology academy. The FabTextile project offers an “Open sourcing fashion production for a global innovation ecosystem.”. It is a research platform that seeks a new approach in the fashion industry through the use of technologies as 3D printing or CNC milling.

Taken for FabTextile website:

In Fab Textiles we are developing and implementing a new approach on to how create, produce and distribute fashion elements, by using distributed manufacturing infrastructures and knowledge networks. Fab Textiles offers a cross-disciplinary education and research platform, where production and culture through advanced technologies are making impact in the way we think and act towards the fashion industry.

top view of 3D printed top

3D printed top. Credit: Anastasia Pistofidou

As we have mentioned in other posts, the use of 3D printing in the textile sector is opening a new scope that is oriented towards improving the present landscape of fashion. Although we are still making baby steps before we graduate to major achievements, there are some interesting ways that 3D printing can add to fashion. Some of the positive things 3D printing could bring this field is the possibility of creating tailored garments that waste less material. The capacity to produce locally and improve distribution systems, saving transportation costs and pollution are other benefits. Also, the idea of open source fashion is quite interesting and could shift the way we design clothes, enhancing the customization of pieces to fit personal needs while making fashion more of a collective endeavor.

We asked Anastasia some questions in order to learn more.

Which 3D printers do you use?

We use various 3D printers using FDM technology, mainly BCN and Prusa.

What materials can you print?

We can print in TPU, PLA, Filaflex, nylon.

How would I work with you if I was a fashion designer?

You can make your sketches and patterns in paper and we can 3D model and 3D print them.

Why is what you do important?

Because it is a completely new production process and it used 3D models that are digital and not physical patterns on paper. you can also design directly in 3D, not necessarily in a flat pattern. You can send your 3D file anywhere to be printed, without having to ship garments

What is the added value?

Distributed production, collaborative production, self making, self sustenance.

What are you adding to the 3d printing & fashion world?

Techniques, tutorials, educational material, methodologies, products as showcase, artistic pieces.

Can you actually wear the garments?

Yes, you can.

Can you clean it in a washing machine?

Washing machines may change as well, imagine cleaning your garments as you are cleaning a table, it will be different cleaning method.

Picture of the back of a 3D printed top

3D printed top. Credit: Anastasia Pistofidou

The Future of 3D Printing and Fashion Design Through the Eyes of LabeledBy

LabeledBy is a design studio based in Eindhoven, the Netherlands. They work in fashion and their area of expertise is research and technology development. Their products range goes from technological textiles to innovative couture. As engineers with master degrees from the Technical University of Eindhoven, they are able to explore the future of fashion and adapt innovative methods to fashion design that bring the craft of clothing forward.

Picture of Jessica Joosse working

Jessica Joosse, co-owner of LabeledBy

In their own words, here is their mission:

We strive for a personalised, localised and sustainable fashion industry. Therefore it is our mission is to transform the fashion industry through innovation and technology. We develop new textiles that are relevant for a diverse range of applications, and research alternative digital manufacturing systems for textiles and garments. These systems have the ability to automate labor intensive and dangerous processes, improving worker safety and wellbeing. Next to that, these digital manufacturing systems encourage on demand and personalised production of garments, resulting in less waste and more value for the customer.

Picture of a detail of a 3D printed pattern

Detail of a 3D printed pattern on textile

The use of 3D printing in fashion is creating an optimistic path towards the future of textile and clothing. What is presented nowadays as exclusive showpieces could be a possibility at hand for everybody in the future. As one of the most important features of 3D printing, the possibility of have a personalised garment that fits each body perfectly by being unique makes us impatient to see the future of fashion design.

LabeledBy is a studio that has placed its bet in this direction. They offer a future-oriented service of trend research, textile development as well as the making of exclusive showpieces. With an in-house production, they have the possibility of personalise each project and develop it in terms of manufacturing techniques and material. They work with a 3D printer that prints directly on textile, being able to create form small samples to big garments. Starting with an Ultimaker that they then modified the team is now continuing to develop their own print methods. 

Picture of a dress made by labeledby

Garment made by LabeledBy

 

Picture of a detail sample mady by labeledby

Detail of textile. Image by Jessica Joosse.

I reached out to LabeledBy to interview Fabienne van der Weiden and Jessica Joosse on their chosen craft.

How does your 3D printer work?

The principle of the 3D printer is comparable with an FDM printer, however, it is redesigned and optimised for 3D printing garments and textiles.

What materials can it print?

The printer prints all the materials (filaments) currently available on the market. We are constantly tweaking the machine so it can also print with more experimental and biodegradable materials.

How would I work with you if I was a fashion designer?

With our manufacturing technique, the sky’s the limit in terms of design and materials! Fashion designers can make use of our pre-developed textiles or can collaborate with us to develop new textiles which will be implemented in the final design that can be printed on our 3D printer.

Why is what you do important?

FashionTech is there to explore and form the future, in anticipation of current society and its culture. By implementing technology in fashion we can make clothes on the edge of the existing framework and approach the state of the art from unknown perspectives. By doing this, we are able to create a culture in which society is encouraged to discuss the future of the fashion industry.

What is the added value of what you do?

We believe that fashion is not only perceived as functional, it also has the ability to show someone’s identity. Therefore garments could become much more personal, both in fit as in expression. Using technology during the process of creating a garment gives us the possibility of making the garment more personal and unique.

What are you adding to the 3D printing & fashion world?

The combination of digital generated personalized patterns (through for example AI) and digital manufacturing techniques gives us the possibility of easily changing the design of each garment without additional costs or long setup time. This gives fashion designers and fashion brands the possibility to efficiently adapt and personalize their garments to the fast-changing needs of their customers. We actually believe that this can give the fashion industry a lot of freedom and benefits when applied correctly!

What do you think about the future of 3Dprinting & fashion?

We believe strongly that consumers’ search for unique and sustainable consumption experiences will gradually drive the emergence of a different paradigm. Such a paradigm will require new technologies for consumer-driven design, new production methods for flexible, efficient and local on-demand production down to lot size one. And of course a seamless network of designers with different fields of expertise, working with these new technologies in an open-source community. We are excited for the future of fashion!

Can you actually wear the garments? Can you clean them in a washing machine?

Absolutely! Check our Instagram. Currently, our garments are worn by performers and artists. Yes, that’s not a problem! We use materials that are suitable to wash in a regular washing machine.

Personally, I do believe that 3D printing has a lot to offer the fashion world. Given my experience with developing 3D printing filaments as an engineer, I’m skeptical about the real-life wear and washability of 3D printed garments today. But, I’m sure that motivated people like Fabienne & Jessica will get us there in the end. We are at the beginning of a long path whose end requires a creative mind to foresee. The difficulties are in imagining a future of 3D printing in fashion which itself creates new aesthetics that still feel futuristic to us. As a designer, this idea of new aesthetic tinkles my mind. I’m excited to see the work of studios like LabeledBy which help us to envision the future of 3D printing and fashion through their dedication.